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A Raman spectroscopic investigation of the mechanism of the reduction of hair with thioglycerol and the accompanying disulfide conformational changes
ConclusionThe author concluded that the waved virgin human hair treated with TG adjusted to pH 9.0 with ammonia solution was less damaged as compared with the waved hair treated with TGA, despite its good waving efficiency, since not only were the GGG and GGT conformations disconnected, but they were also changed to the TGT conformation by performing the reduction process with TG.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 18, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: A. Kuzuhara Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Disruption of human stratum corneum lipid structure by sodium dodecyl sulfate
ConclusionWe conclude that the disruption of the long lamellar structure plays a key role in the damage to the SC caused by detergents. To our knowledge, this is the first report to clarify the details of the disorganization of the intercellular lipid structure upon surfactant application. The knowledge obtained herein may allow the development of skin restoration methods and cleanser products that do not affect skin barrier functions.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 18, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: Kaori Yanase, Ichiro Hatta Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Comparing touch senses of na ïve and expert panels through treated hair swatches. Which associated wordings correlate with hair physical properties?
ConclusionTrained hair experts were confirmed as reliable representatives of a larger and naïve cohort, viewed as consumers. Hair swatches were well differentiated by both panels, with comparable descriptor rankings.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 16, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: Anthony Galliano, Jean Yves Kempf, Maxime Fougere, Mara Applebaum, Leszek J. Wolfram, Howard Maibach Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Influence of UV filters on the texture profile and efficacy of a cosmetic formulation
ConclusionThe presence of sunscreens had a negative influence on immediate skin hydration and transepidermal water loss. On the other hand, it positively influenced parameters related to the physical properties of the multifunctional formulation and skin microrelief. Thus, we conclude that the influence of UV filters on the development of cosmetic formulations is an important factor to be considered since it can have either positive or negative effects on the efficacy of the product.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 2, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: Marina Mendes Fossa Shirata, Patr ícia M. B.G.Maia Campos Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

The worldwide diversity of scalp seborrhoea, as daily experienced by seven human ethnic groups
ConclusionThe kinetics and slopes of the re‐greasing process of the human scalp appear similar in all ethnic groups studied. Despite, striking quantitative differences are found between the 7 ethnic groups, resulting from different sebaceous production levels and scalp hygiene routines.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 2, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: Florence Pouradier, Chen Liu, John Wares, Emilie Yokoyama, Catherine Collaudin, S égolène Panhard, Didier Saint‐Léger, Geneviève Loussouarn Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Understanding the effects of topography on skin moisturization measurement via two ‐dimensional capacitance imaging
ConclusionsWhile the two‐dimensional moisturization mapping systems can be used like a conventional electrical skin measurement device giving a simple overall reading of skin moisturization for the test area, their true value over existing electrical measures comes from its ability to isolate the skin itself from areas which are not in contact with the sensor. Résumé ObjectifLes méthodes qui évaluent l'hydratation de la peau grâce aux changements de ses propriétés électriques sont largement utilisées dans les industries de la recherche médicale et cosm...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - August 6, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: J. M. Crowther Tags: Research Communication Source Type: research

Seasonally ‐induced alterations of some facial signs in Caucasian women. Impact of a daily application of a photo‐protective product
ConclusionThe alterations in some facial signs occurring in a 6‐month period between winter and summer are confirmed in Caucasian women, mostly related to structural (wrinkles) and vascular elements. Such changes appear alleviated or prevented by daily applications of a strong sun photo‐protective product.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - August 1, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: Frederic Flament, Brigitte Gautier, Amelie ‐Marie Benize, Aude Charbonneau, Matthieu Cassier Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

The effect of photodamage on the female Caucasian facial stratum corneum corneome using mass spectrometry ‐based proteomics
ConclusionClear examples of poor keratinocyte differentiation and associated metabolic and signalling pathways together with reduced SC maturation were identified in photodamaged facial SC. Corneocyte immaturity was evident with changes in CE proteins. Particularly, the reduction in 12R‐LOX is a novel finding in photodamaged skin and supports the lack of SC maturation. Moreover, filaggrinolysis was reduced, whereas corneodesmolysis was enhanced. From our results, we propose that there is a poor crosstalk between the keratinocyte endoplasmic reticulum UPR, proteasome network and autophagy machinery that possibly leads to ...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - August 1, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: Rainer Voegeli, Jean ‐Marc Monneuse, Rotraut Schoop, Beverley Summers, Anthony V. Rawlings Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Reinforcement of barrier function and scalp homeostasis by Senkyunolide A to fight against dandruff
ConclusionFor the first time SENKY has been shown to promote scalp homeostasis by reinforcing barrier and defence functions at both gene and protein levels. It reduces irritation and redness in promoting detoxification and anti‐inflammation pathways while controlling the niche of Malassezia. Applied on scalp, SENKY significantly reduces the formation of dandruff and soothes the scalp.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - August 1, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: Philippe Mondon, Caroline Ringenbach, Emmanuel Doridot, Viviane Genet, Pascaline Criton Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Particulate matter (PM's) adheres to human hair exposed to severe aerial pollution: Consequences for certain hair surface properties
ConclusionThis work indicates that a very high amount (e.g. billions) of PM's can be deposited on a full head of hair for subjects living in a severely aerially polluted environment. This process can be reproduced in vitro. In real life, pollution has a strong impact on hair surface properties, leading to a modification of the visual aspect (loss of shine) and the alteration of hair surface (increase of friction force). This work may be used to pave the way for prevention and cleansing studies in the field of hair care.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 27, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: Anthony Galliano, Chengda Ye, Fengjie Su, Chad Wang, Yin Wang, Chen Liu, Anupama Wagle, Myriam Guerin, Fr édéric Flament, Andrew Steel Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Fractionated aliphatic alcohols as synthetic precursors of ultra long ‐chain monoacylglycerols for cosmetic applications
ConclusionsPerformacol 425 can be a potential source of fatty alcohols to synthesize monoacylglycerols that can improve the occlusive behaviour of phospholipid‐structured emulsions. Résumé La Xérose entraine une peau anormalement sèche et écailleuse, elle est associée à une modification de la structure de la matrice lipidique dans le stratum corneum (SC), la couche la plus externe de la peau. Cet état de la peau peut entraîner une augmentation de la perte insensible en eau (TEWL). Étant donné que les acides gras à chaîne ultra longu...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 26, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: B. P érez, B. S. Hansen, P. A. Bulsara, A. V. Rawlings, M. J. Clarke, Z. Guo Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Physical –Mechanical characterization of cosmetic formulations and correlation between instrumental measurements and sensorial properties
ConclusionThe raw materials strongly influenced the physical, texture and sensorial parameters. Finally, the UV filters showed a greater influence on the results of the formulations than the chicory root extract. In conclusion, the association of the mentioned methods allows the correct choice of ingredients and their combinations. Résumé ObjectifsLe bon choix des matières premières dans le développement de formulations cosmétiques est essentiel pour obtenir des produits de soins de la peau stables et agréables. Par conséquent, les analyses rhéologiques, de te...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 24, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: L. S. Calixto, P. M. B. G. Maia Campos Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Retinyl Propionate and Climbazole Combination Demonstrates Clinical Improvement to the Appearance of Hyperpigmentation and Deep Wrinkling with Minimal Irritation
Abstract ObjectiveTo evaluate a combination of retinyl propionate and climbazole (RPC) compared to 0.1% retinol for its efficacy, tolerance and aging appearance. MethodForty‐five healthy Caucasian females, ages 40‐70, with moderately photodamaged facial skin, were recruited for a 16 week randomized, double‐blind, IRB approved facial study. The efficacy of RPC treatment was compared to 0.1% retinol, in the same product base formulation, with twice daily, split‐face product application. Changes in overall photodamage, fine lines and wrinkles, pigmentation and irritation were visually evaluated and measured by instrum...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 22, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: Stacy Hawkins, Jean Adamus, Chung ‐yi Chiang, Edwin Covell, Jaime O'Leary, Jian‐ming Lee Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Effect of a peptide in cosmetic formulations for hair volume control
ConclusionCaucasian hair showed higher volume than Asian hair when submitted to both relative humidity conditions. The incorporation of the peptide into the climate control formulations, a base (mostly composed of water ≈ 94%) and an ethanolic, was found to reduce the volume of Caucasian hair tresses. The presence of the peptide improved the hair volume change more than 60% in high relative humidity conditions.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 13, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: C élia F. Cruz, Artur Ribeiro, Madalena Martins, Artur Cavaco‐Paulo Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Determination of cyclic volatile methylsiloxanes in personal care products by gas chromatography
ConclusionThis report demonstrates that an approach to determine cVMS levels in personal care products is to perform an emulsion break on the sample, isolate the nonpolar phase from the emulsion break and treat with a silylation reagent to abate potential in situ formation of cyclics during the course of GC‐FID analysis. Round robin studies conducted in laboratories representing multiple siloxane manufacturers demonstrated the reliability of the GC‐FID method when measuring cVMS in PCPs down to circa 0.1%.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 12, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: Herbert M. Brothers, Thomas Boehmer, Roy A. Campbell, Steven Dorn, Joel J. Kerbleski, Sarah Lewis, Christian Mund, Donald Pero, Kenji Saito, Michael Wieser, Wolfgang Zoller Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Understanding the effects of topography on skin moisturization measurement via 2 dimensional capacitance imaging
ConclusionsWhile the 2 dimensional moisturization mapping systems can be used like a conventional electrical skin measurement device giving a simple overall reading of skin moisturization for the test area, their true value over existing electrical measures comes from its ability to isolate the skin itself from areas which are not in contact with the sensor.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 12, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: J.M. Crowther Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Novel amino acid ‐based surfactant for silicone emulsification and its application in hair care products: A promising alternative to quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants
ConclusionThis study shows that N‐AOHPA has good potential for use as an emulsifier in products used for improving the condition of damaged hair.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 12, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: Mika Fujii, Motoki Inoue, Toshiro Fukami Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Conventional sunscreen application does not lead to sufficient body coverage
ConclusionIn most cases, the usual sunscreen application routine does not provide complete body coverage even though an extra light sunscreen with good absorption properties was used. On average, 11 % of the body surface was not covered by sunscreen at all. Therefore, appropriate consumer education is required to improve sunscreen application and to warrant effective sun protection.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 12, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: Z. Jovanovic, Th. Schornstein, A. Sutor, G. Neufang, R. Hagens Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Terminalia ferdinandiana Exell. Extracts inhibit the growth of body odour ‐forming bacteria
Abstract ObjectiveTerminalia ferdinandiana extracts are potent growth inhibitors of many bacterial pathogens. They may also inhibit the growth of malodour‐producing bacteria and thus be useful deodorant components, although this is yet to be tested. MethodsTerminalia ferdinandiana fruit and leaf solvent extracts were investigated by disc diffusion and liquid dilution MIC assays against the most significant bacterial contributors to axillary and plantar malodour formation. Toxicity was determined using the Artemia franciscana nauplii bioassay. Non‐targeted HPLC separation of the methanolic leaf extract coupled to high...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 5, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: K. McManus, A. Wood, M. H. Wright, B. Matthews, A. C. Greene, I. E. Cock Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Gel Network Shampoo Formulation and Hair Health Benefits
ConclusionsThe formation of a stable gel network was confirmed in the formulated shampoo and it was demonstrated that this gel network is important to deliver cetyl and stearyl alcohol into hair. The presence of fatty alcohol inside hair was shown to deliver a hair strength benefit via cyclic fatigue testing.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 1, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: Jennifer M Marsh, Mark Brown, Tim Felts, Howard Hutton, Mike Vatter, Shane Whitaker, Fred Wireko, Peter Styczynski, Chuiying Li, Ian Henry Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Topical equol preparation improves structural and molecular skin parameters
Abstract ObjectiveEquol has been shown to improve skin health and regeneration, due to its antioxidative, phytoestrogenic and epigenetic characteristics. The effects of a topical intervention on skin structure, telomere length and epigenetic markers in skin cells were analysed. Methods64 participants were divided in four groups and three of them treated topically with: emulsion with Equol powder (Isoflavandiol‐E‐55‐RS®); emulsion with microencapsulated Equol (Vesisorb® Isoflavandiol‐E‐55‐RS®) and an emulsion with lecithin (Vesisorb® placebo). A control group of 6 volunteers did not receive any i...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 1, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: U Magnet, Chr. Urbanek, D Gaisberger, E Tomeva, E Dum, A Pointner, A G Haslberger Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Forearm skin aging: characterization by instrumental measurements
ConclusionMeaningful differences in the biophysical characteristics of the extensor and flexor faces of the forearms were detected. Because the non‐invasive instrumental measurements correlated with clinical findings, they may represent useful tools to assess efficacy and safety of skin aging treatments in clinical research.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 31, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: PRS Carvalho, J M Sumita, J L M Soares, Sanudo A, Bagatin E Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

How a working day ‐induced‐tiredness may alter some facial signs in differently‐aged Caucasian women
ConclusionA normal working day induces, in the studied women, slight but detectable changes in some facial signs that vary (location, intensity) according to age. Résumé ObjectifsEvaluer l'influence d'une journée de travail sur certains signes cliniques du visage de femmes françaises caucasiennes. MéthodesDes photographies standardisées de la totalité du visage de 111 femmes de différentes classes d’âge ont été prises avant et après une journée de travail. Les photos ont été soumises, en aveugle (matin ou soir), &...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 29, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: F. Flament, J. Pierre, K. Delhommeau, A. S. Adam Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Physical Mechanical characterization of cosmetic formulations and correlation between instrumental measurements and sensorial properties
ConclusionThe raw materials strongly influenced the physical, texture and sensorial parameters. Finally, the UV filters showed a greater influence on the results of the formulations than the chicory root extract. In conclusion, the association of the mentioned methods allows the correct choice of ingredients and their combinations.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 28, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: L ívia Salomão Calixto, Patrícia M. B. G. Maia Campos Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Improvement of Hydration and Epidermal Barrier Function in Human Skin by a Novel Compound Isosorbide Dicaprylate
ConclusionTopical isosorbide dicaprylate favorably modulates genes involved in the maintenance of skin structure and function, resulting in superior clinical outcomes. By improving skin hydration and epidermal permeability barrier it offers therapeutic applications in skin aging.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 25, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: Ratan K Chaudhuri, Krzysztof Bojanowski Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

A dissociation in judgements of confidence in people with dandruff based on self ‐reports compared to reports from other observers
ConclusionsThese findings reveal a difference between explicit and implicit measures of self‐esteem in men compared to women with dandruff. Résumé Objectifil n'est pas clair dans quelle mesure les évaluations effectuées par d'autres personnes correspondent à des autoévaluations d'estime ou de confiance. Pour répondre à cette question, nous avons comparé les mesures de confiance chez les participants avec et sans pellicules. Méthodesles participants avec des pellicules ont des résultats significativement différents par rapport aux t&eacut...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 23, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: A. Godbehere, L. McDonald, F. Baines, C. A. M. Sutherland, T. J. Andrews Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

The chemistry, function and (patho)physiology of stratum corneum barrier ceramides
Abstract Research on understanding of the chemistry, function and (patho)physiology of stratum corneum (SC) lipids and especially ceramides has evolved over the last two decades. This has been made successful through the application of separation techniques that have become increasingly more sophisticated, and it has become increasingly evident that our understanding of these molecules remains in its infancy. Thirteen classes of ceramides with over 300 and possibly up to 1000 distinct ceramide species have been identified suggesting an exquisitely subtle relationship between the types of ceramides and physical and chemical...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 18, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: D. J. Moore, A. V. Rawlings Tags: Review Article Source Type: research

Polygonum multiflorum Radix extract protects human foreskin melanocytes from oxidative stress in  vitro and potentiates hair follicle pigmentation ex vivo
ConclusionPolygonum multiflorum Radix extract protects in vitro primary human foreskin melanocytes from the deleterious effects of H2O2 exposure and improves pigmentation within ex vivo human hair follicles, demonstrating the utility of Polygonum multiflorum Radix extract as a potential active ingredient for the protection of melanocytes against premature death. This data provides in vitro mechanistic evidence consistent with existing in vivo studies for the use of Polygonum multiflorum Radix extract as a strategy for the prevention of oxidative stress‐induced hair greying, in line with traditional Po...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - April 27, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: P. Sextius, R. Betts, I. Benkhalifa, S. Commo, J. Eilstein, M. Massironi, P. Wang, J. ‐F. Michelet, J. Qiu, X. Tan, S. Jeulin Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Fractionated aliphatic alcohols as synthetic precursors of ultra long chain monoacylglycerols for cosmetic applications
ConclusionsPerformacol 425 can be a potential source of fatty alcohols to synthesize monoacylglycerols that can improve the occlusive behavior of phospholipid‐structured emulsions.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - April 1, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: Bianca P érez, Bjørn S. Hansen, Pallav A. Bulsara, Anthony Vincent Rawlings, Martyn J. Clarke, Zheng Guo Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Terminalia ferdinandiana Exell. extracts inhibit the growth of body odour forming bacteria
Abstract ObjectiveT. ferdinandiana extracts are potent growth inhibitors of many bacterial pathogens. They may also inhibit the growth of malodour producing bacteria and thus be useful deodorant components, although this is yet to be tested. MethodsT. ferdinandiana fruit and leaf solvent extracts were investigated by disc diffusion and liquid dilution MIC assays against the most significant bacterial contributors to axillary and plantar malodour formation. Toxicity was determined using the Artemia franciscana nauplii bioassay. Non‐targeted HPLC separation of the methanolic leaf extract, coupled to high resolution time‐...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - April 1, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: Kane McManus, Aiden Wood, Mitchell Henry Wright, Ben Matthews, Anthony Carlson Greene, Ian Edwin Cock Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Towards satisfying performance of an O/W cosmetic emulsion: screening of reformulation factors on textural and rheological properties using general experimental design
ConclusionThe study showed that the established approach which combines a general experimental design and instrumental, rheological and textural measurements could be appropriate, more objective, repeatable and time and money‐saving step towards developing cosmetic emulsions with satisfying, improved or unchanged, consumer‐acceptable performance during the reformulation.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - April 1, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: M. Filipovic, M. Lukic, S. Djordjevic, V. Krstonosic, I. Pantelic, G. Vuleta, S. Savic Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

New test method for the evaluation of the preservation efficacy of soaps at very alkaline pH made by saponification
ConclusionThis study enabled the development of a test method to evaluate the efficacy of preservation using a specific bacterium, Nesterenkonia lacusekhoensis, responsible for the contamination of very alkaline soaps made by saponification and identify an appropriate preservative system.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - April 1, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: S. T émoin‐Fardini, J. Servant, S. Sellam Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

A Dissociation in judgments of confidence in people with dandruff based on self ‐reports compared to reports from other observers
ConclusionsThese findings reveal a difference between explicit and implicit measures of self‐esteem in men compared to women with dandruff.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - April 1, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: Amanda Godbehere, Lorraine McDonald, Fiona Baines, Clare A. M. Sutherland, Timothy J. Andrews Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Wetting and adhesion evaluation of cosmetic ingredients and products: correlation of in vitro –in vivo contact angle measurements
ConclusionSystematic study carried out by evaluating the wettability of single cosmetic ingredients on different substrates allowed to find correlations between the use of certain ingredients and the final performance of a cosmetic product. Résumé ObjectifsLe but de ce travail est d'utiliser la mesure de l'angle de contact afin de prédire le comportement des ingrédients et des produits cosmétiques finis sur la peau pour améliorer le toucher et la texture du produit. MéthodeDifférentes classes d'ingrédients et de formulations cosmétiques ont ét&ea...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - March 28, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: P. Capra, G. Musitelli, P. Perugini Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

The chemistry, function & (patho)physiology of stratum corneum barrier ceramides
This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - March 24, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: David J. Moore, Anthony V. Rawlings Tags: Review Article Source Type: research

How a working day induced ‐tiredness may alter some facial signs in differently‐aged Caucasian women
ConclusionA normal working day induces, in the studied women, slight but detectable changes in some facial signs that vary (location, intensity) according to age.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - March 14, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: Flament Frederic, Pierre Julien, Delhommeau Karine, Adam Anne ‐Sophie Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Lipid ‐based submicron capsules as a strategy to include high concentrations of a hydrophobic lightening agent in a hydrogel
ConclusionLipid‐based capsules (LNC), an encapsulation system useful for the epidermal delivery of hydrophobic compounds, were adapted to the encapsulation of a commercial lightening agent. The encapsulation permits the dispersion in a stable manner of a very high concentration of a hydrophobic active molecule in a hydrogel while maintaining the physicochemical and sensory properties of the gel.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - March 14, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: HTP Nguyen, M Souc é, X Perse, F Vial, T. Perrier, F Yvergnaux, I Chourpa, E Munnier Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Development and validation of an ultraviolet –visible spectrophotometric method for determination of phenylethyl resorcinol in new topical nanoemulsions
Abstract ObjectiveTo develop a rapid, simple and efficient ultraviolet–visible (UV–vis) spectrophotometric method for the quantification of phenylethyl resorcinol (PR), a potent skin‐lightening agent, incorporated into new topical nanoemulsions, and to validate this method according to International Commission for Harmonization (ICH) guidelines. MethodsUV–vis spectrophotometric method for quantification of PR in new topical nanoemulsions was developed and validated in terms of specificity, linearity, sensitivity, precision and accuracy. The method was applied to determine PR content (extraction recoveri...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - March 9, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: L. Hong, D. Han, M. ‐X. Li, P. Zhang, C.‐G. Liu Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Skin delivery of hydrophilic molecules from liposomes and polysaccharide ‐coated liposomes
In conclusion, polysaccharide coating of liposomes allows for better protection of their integrity without compromising the skin bioavailability of the active molecules that they convoy. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - March 6, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: Nabila Belhaj, Elmira Arab ‐Tehrany, Estelle Loing, Carine Bézivin Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Free radical scavenging properties of mannitol and its role as a constituent of hyaluronic acid fillers: a literature review
Abstract Mannitol has both hydrating and antioxidant properties that make it an ideal excipient for use with hyaluronic acid (HA) fillers. This review examines the role of reactive oxygen species in the ageing process and their effects on both endogenous HA and HA products developed for aesthetic use. Evidence is presented to show that the free radical scavenging properties of mannitol provide it with a two‐fold mechanism of action when combined with HA fillers: reducing the inflammation and swelling associated with the injection procedure itself, and preventing the degradation of the injected HA by free radicals. Mannit...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - February 16, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: P. Andr é, F. Villain Tags: Review Article Source Type: research

The perplexing dilemma of measuring sun protection factors
This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - January 31, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: Marc Pissavini, Brian Diffey, Olivier Doucet Tags: Research Communication Source Type: research

The effect of additives on release and in vitro skin retention of flavonoids from emulsion and gel semisolid formulations
ConclusionThe proper choice of the solvent added to the semisolid base is crucial for enhanced skin delivery of the tested flavonoids. PG is more efficient absorption promoter than PEG 400 of both chrysin and quercetin.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - January 31, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: Renata Dyja, Andrzej Jankowski Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Development and Clinical Validation of a Novel Photography ‐based Skin Erythema Evaluation System: A Comparison with the Calculated Consensus of Dermatologists
This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - January 31, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: M. Cho, D ‐H. Lee, E. J. Doh, Y. Kim, J. H. Chung, H. C. Kim, S. Kim Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

A robust sebum, oil, and particulate pollution model for assessing cleansing efficacy of human skin
Abstract With increasing concerns over the rise of atmospheric particulate pollution globally and its impact on systemic health and skin ageing, we have developed a pollution model to mimic particulate matter trapped in sebum and oils creating a robust (difficult to remove) surrogate for dirty, polluted skin. ObjectiveTo evaluate the cleansing efficacy/protective effect of a sonic brush vs. manual cleansing against particulate pollution (trapped in grease/oil typical of human sebum). MethodsThe pollution model (Sebollution; sebum pollution model; SPM) consists of atmospheric particulate matter/pollution combined with greas...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - January 30, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: G. Peterson, S. Rapaka, N. Koski, M. Kearney, K. Ortblad, L. Tadlock Tags: Research communication Source Type: research

Hexamidine salts – applications in skin health and personal care products
This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - January 27, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: Nicola Parisi, Paul J. Matts, Rebecca Lever, Jonathan Hadgraft, Majella E. Lane Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Polygonum multiflorum Radix extract protects human foreskin melanocytes from oxidative stress in vitro and potentiates hair follicle pigmentation ex vivo
ConclusionPolygonum multiflorum Radix extract protects in vitro primary human foreskin melanocytes from the deleterious effects of H2O2‐exposure and improves pigmentation within ex vivo human hair follicles, demonstrating the utility of Polygonum multiflorum Radix extract as a potential active ingredient for the protection of melanocytes against premature death. This data provides in vitro mechanistic evidence consistent with existing in vivo studies for the use of Polygonum multiflorum Radix extract as a strategy for the prevention of oxidative‐stress induced hair greying, in line with traditional Polygonum multifloru...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - January 21, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: Peggy Sextius, Richard Betts, Ishak Benkhalifa, St éphane Commo, Joan Eilstein, Marco Massironi, Ping Wang, Jean‐Francois Michelet, Jie Qiu, Xuezhu Tan, Severine Jeulin Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Climbazole Boosts Activity of Retinoids in Skin
Abstract ObjectiveTo explore if climbazole enhances retinoid‐associated biological activities in vitro and in vivo. MethodsPrimary human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) were treated from six to 48 hours with either retinoids (retinol, retinyl propionate, retinyl palmitate) alone or in combination with climbazole, then assessed for cellular retinoic acid‐binding protein 2 (CRABP2) mRNA expression by RT‐qPCR. Next, skin equivalent (SE) cultures were topically treated with a retinol or retinyl propionate, and with or without climbazole, then measured for biological changes in retinoid biomarkers. Lastly, an IRB‐approved cli...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - January 19, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: Jean Adamus, Li Feng, Stacy Hawkins, Kristopher Kalleberg, Jian ‐ming Lee Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Synthesis and Antioxidant Properties of Caffeic Acid Corn Bran Arabinoxylan Esters
This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - January 17, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: Yanli Li, Yuanbo Zhu, Rong Liang, Cheng Yang Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Editorial
(Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - January 9, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: Karl Lintner, Majella E. Lane Tags: Editorial Source Type: research

A highly resistant structure between cuticle and cortex of human hair
ConclusionThis study proposed the presence of a membrane‐like structure, which is highly resistant against chemical treatment, at the region between cuticle and cortex of human hair. This may protect cortex from external stimuli more firmly than the surface part of cuticle. Résumé ObjectifClarifier la présence et les propriétés d'une structure unique située entre la cuticule et le cortex des cheveux humains MéthodesDes fibres de cheveux entières et des cheveux fendus longitudinalement ont été utilisés. Traité avec un mélange d'ur&...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - December 3, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: T. Takahashi, S. Yoshida Tags: Original Article Source Type: research