Determinants of Climbing Performance: When Finger Flexor Strength and Endurance Count

Marcolin, G, Faggian, S, Muschietti, M, Matteraglia, L, and Paoli, A. Determinants of climbing performance: when finger flexor strength and endurance count. J Strength Cond Res 36(4): 1099–1104, 2022—Aim of the study was: (a) to compare finger flexor strength and endurance among climbers and nonclimbers; (b) to predict climbers' level of ability using climbing-specific strength tests and prolonged fatigue protocols. 17 advanced climbers (ADV), 17 intermediate climbers (INT), and 15 nonclimbers (NOCLIMB) performed a maximal finger grip test on a climbing-specific device, a maximal handgrip test, 20 intermittent isometric maximal contractions (E1), a suspension test on a bar till exhaustion, and again 20 intermittent isometric maximal contractions (E2). Strength values were normalized to body weight (%BW). The handgrip test failed to discriminate ADV from INT. Maximal finger flexor strength differed among ADV (59.90 ± 9.42 %BW), INT (46.75 ± 8.40 %BW) and NOCLIMB (36.40 ± 6.51 %BW) (p

Source: Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research - March 25, 2022 Category: Sports Medicine Tags: Original Research Source Type: research