Effect of emollients on UV filter absorbance and sunscreen efficiency

Publication date: Available online 8 February 2020Source: Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B: BiologyAuthor(s): Myriam Sohn, Lola Amorós-Galicia, Stanislaw Krus, Karine Martin, Bernd HerzogAbstractThe idea of increasing the performance of sunscreens without adding more UV-filters is very attractive. Early studies reported an influence of solvents on the absorbing properties of UV-absorbers which was shown to be connected to the solvent polarity. However, the polarity differed a lot between tested solvents and most were unsuitable UV-filter solubilizers. The aim of the present study was to focus exclusively on emollients pertinent for sunscreens and investigate their impact on the performance of UV-filter combinations. The UV absorbance of Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, and Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate was measured in suncare relevant emollients comprising C12–15 Alkyl Benzoate, Dibutyl Adipate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Coco-caprylate, Isopropyl Myristate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate. The wavelength of maximum absorbance (λmax) and specific extinction at λmax (E1,1 (λmax)) were assessed for each UV-filter – emollient system. The performance of market relevant UV-filter combinations based on the studied UV-filters was simulated for each emollient with a computational method using the absorbance values measured for each UV-filter - emollient system. The difference in polarity of emol...
Source: Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology - Category: Speech-Language Pathology Source Type: research