The diversity of the human hair colour assessed by visual scales and instrumental measurements. A world ‐wide survey
ConclusionThe comparisons between visual assessments and instrumental data show that these appear closely linked. Darker hairs show close or subtle variations in L*,a*,b* parameters, making their individual colour differentiation calling for technical improvements in colorimetric measurements. The latter are likely governed by other physical factors such as shape, diameter and shine.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 31, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: I Lozano, J B Saunie, S Panhar, G Loussouarn Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Licoricidin, an isoflavonoid isolated from Glycyrrhiza uralensis Fisher, prevents UVA ‐induced photoaging of human dermal fibroblasts
ConclusionLicoricidin blocks UVA‐induced photoaging via ROS scavenging. This activity converge to limit the activity of MMP‐1. These data suggest that licoricidin may be considered as an active ingredient in new topically applied anti‐aging formulations.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 31, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Kyeong Jin Kim, Song Hua Xuan, Soo Nam Park Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Correlation study between image features and mechanical properties of Han Chinese facial skin
ConclusionThe facial image features including wrinkle volume and skin roughness are significantly correlated with skin elasticity and anisotropy, which could well describe the skin features of Han Chinese.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 31, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Li Ma, Yimei Tan, Shuli Zheng, Jing Li, Changqing Jiang, Zhichen Chen, Xuemin Wang Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Preliminary performance data of the RHE/IL ‐18 assay performed on SkinEthic™ RHE for the identification of contact sensitizers
ConclusionThe prediction model to be used was refined, and more substances have to be tested in order to gather enough data for this evaluation and to determine the right criteria applicable for this assay using the SkinEthic™ RHE test system.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 26, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Eric Andres, Mouctar Barry, Alexander Hundt, Christophe Dini, Emanuela Corsini, Sue Gibbs, Erwin L. Roggen, Pierre ‐Jacques Ferret Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Design, synthesis and characterization of linear unnatural amino acids for skin moisturization
ConclusionsThis work demonstrates the potential of unnatural amino acid hydrotropes as skin moisturizers and has developed some predictive ‘rules’ for further design and refinement of chemical structures. Résumé ObjectifsCe travail vise à concevoir, synthétiser et 0 caractériser le remplacement du Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF) composé d'acides aminés linéaires hygroscopiques modifiés pour anticiper ou réparer un dysfonctionnement de la barrière cutanée. MethodeAprès la synthèse et la caractérisation, l'analyse thermo‐gravimétrique et la modélisation par la mécanique quantique moléculaire perme...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 23, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: N. R. Arezki, A. C. Williams, A. J. A. Cobb, M. B. Brown Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

The effects of benzylsulfonyl ‐D‐Ser‐homoPhe‐(4‐amidino‐benzylamide), a dual plasmin and urokinase inhibitor, on facial skin barrier function in subjects with sensitive skin
ConclusionBSFAB binds as a reversible competitive inhibitor to the active sites of plasmin and uPA. Additionally, BSFAB positively improved keratinocyte differentiation gene expression (transglutaminase 1). These effects were translated into improvements in SC barrier integrity clinically in subjects with dry and sensitive skin and improved their perception of having a healthy skin condition.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 21, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: R. Voegeli, P. Wikstroem, R. Campiche, T. Steinmetzer, E. Jackson, M. Gempeler, D. Imfeld, A.V. Rawlings Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

The effects of benzylsulfonyl‐D‐Ser‐homoPhe‐(4‐amidino‐benzylamide), a dual plasmin and urokinase inhibitor, on facial skin barrier function in subjects with sensitive skin
ConclusionBSFAB binds as a reversible competitive inhibitor to the active sites of plasmin and uPA. Additionally, BSFAB positively improved keratinocyte differentiation gene expression (transglutaminase 1). These effects were translated into improvements in SC barrier integrity clinically in subjects with dry and sensitive skin and improved their perception of having a healthy skin condition.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 19, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: R. Voegeli, P. Wikstroem, R. Campiche, T. Steinmetzer, E. Jackson, M. Gempeler, D. Imfeld, A.V. Rawlings Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Effect of Ultrasound and Heat on Percutaneous Absorption of L ‐Ascorbic Acid: human in vitro studies on Franz cell and Petri Dish Systems
ConclusionCombination of ultrasound (329 kHz, 20 mW/cm2) and heat (36°C) significantly enhanced LAA transdermal penetration, when the time of treatment was sufficient (5 min). As petri dish model was designed to simulate acoustic respond of dense human tissue to ultrasound, the difference between Franz cell and petri dish models suggests that the enhancement effect of ultrasound/heat on skin penetration in vivo may be greater than that determined on in vitro Franz cell model.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 4, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Eui Chang Jung, Hanjiang Zhu, Ying Zou, Akram Elmahdy, Yachao Cao, Xiaoying Hui, Howard I Maibach Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Design, synthesis and characterisation of linear unnatural amino acids for skin moisturisation
ConclusionsThis work demonstrates the potential of unnatural amino acid hydrotropes as skin moisturisers and has developed some predictive “rules” for further design and refinement of chemical structures.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 4, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Natasha R. Arezki, Adrian C. Williams, A. J. Andre Cobb, Marc B. Brown Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Molecular basis of retinol anti ‐ageing properties in naturally aged human skin in vivo
Conclusion0.4% topical ROL shows remarkable anti‐ageing effects through improvement of the homeostasis of epidermis and dermis by stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes and endothelial cells, and activating dermal fibroblasts. These data provide evidence that 0.4% topical ROL is a promising and safe treatment to improve the naturally aged human skin. Résumé ObjectifL'acide rétinoïque a été montré améliorer l'apparence de la peau âgée. Cependant, on connaît moins les effets anti‐vieillissement de rétinol (ROL, de la vitamine A), un précurseur de l'acide rétinoïque, dans la peau humaine in vivo. C...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 3, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Y. Shao, T. He, G. J. Fisher, J. J. Voorhees, T. Quan Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Molecular basis of retinol anti‐ageing properties in naturally aged human skin in vivo
Conclusion0.4% topical ROL shows remarkable anti‐ageing effects through improvement of the homeostasis of epidermis and dermis by stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes and endothelial cells, and activating dermal fibroblasts. These data provide evidence that 0.4% topical ROL is a promising and safe treatment to improve the naturally aged human skin. Résumé ObjectifL'acide rétinoïque a été montré améliorer l'apparence de la peau âgée. Cependant, on connaît moins les effets anti‐vieillissement de rétinol (ROL, de la vitamine A), un précurseur de l'acide rétinoïque, dans la peau humaine in vivo. C...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 3, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Y. Shao, T. He, G. J. Fisher, J. J. Voorhees, T. Quan Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Determination and confirmation of isopropyl p ‐toluenesulfonate in cosmetics by HPLC‐diode array detector method and GC–MS
ConclusionsThe validation data indicated that this method was suitable for the quantitative analysis of IPTS in commercial cosmetics. This method is applicable for analyses of trace levels of IPTS in cosmetics and has the advantage of using only simple sample preparation steps. Résumé ObjectifL'isopropyl p‐toluènesulfonate (IPTS) est un sous‐produit potentiellement génotoxique formé lors de l'estérification de l'acide myristique à base d'huile de noyaux de palme ou de l'acide palmitique à base d'huile de palme avec de l'isopropanol pour produire isopropylique myristate ou palmitate d'isopropyle. Il n'y a pas l...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 29, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: B. Y. P. Tay, S. C. Yung, T. Y. Teoh Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Determination and confirmation of isopropyl p‐toluenesulfonate in cosmetics by HPLC‐diode array detector method and GC–MS
ConclusionsThe validation data indicated that this method was suitable for the quantitative analysis of IPTS in commercial cosmetics. This method is applicable for analyses of trace levels of IPTS in cosmetics and has the advantage of using only simple sample preparation steps. Résumé ObjectifL'isopropyl p‐toluènesulfonate (IPTS) est un sous‐produit potentiellement génotoxique formé lors de l'estérification de l'acide myristique à base d'huile de noyaux de palme ou de l'acide palmitique à base d'huile de palme avec de l'isopropanol pour produire isopropylique myristate ou palmitate d'isopropyle. Il n'y a pas l...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 29, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: B. Y. P. Tay, S. C. Yung, T. Y. Teoh Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

3 ‐(3,4,5‐Trimethoxybenzylidene)‐2,4‐pentanedione: Design of a novel photostabilizer with in vivo SPF boosting properties and its use in developing broad‐spectrum sunscreen formulations
ConclusionWe were able to design a very effective photostabilizer, trimethoxybenzylidene pentanedione (INCI name), based on benzylidenepentanedione chemistry. TMBP is very efficient in stabilizing avobenzone in formulated products and boosts in vivo SPF by >50% for organic and inorganic sunscreens, and the formulations have critical wavelengths of >370 nm. These efficacious properties make it a promising additive for inclusion in broad‐spectrum photoprotective products. Résumé ObjectifL'étude a porté sur la synthèse d'un nouveau photostabilisant basé sur la chimie de benzylidenepentanedione et l'évaluation ...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 28, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: R. K. Chaudhuri, M. A. Ollengo, P. Singh, B. S. Martincigh Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

3‐(3,4,5‐Trimethoxybenzylidene)‐2,4‐pentanedione: Design of a novel photostabilizer with in vivo SPF boosting properties and its use in developing broad‐spectrum sunscreen formulations
ConclusionWe were able to design a very effective photostabilizer, trimethoxybenzylidene pentanedione (INCI name), based on benzylidenepentanedione chemistry. TMBP is very efficient in stabilizing avobenzone in formulated products and boosts in vivo SPF by >50% for organic and inorganic sunscreens, and the formulations have critical wavelengths of >370 nm. These efficacious properties make it a promising additive for inclusion in broad‐spectrum photoprotective products. Résumé ObjectifL'étude a porté sur la synthèse d'un nouveau photostabilisant basé sur la chimie de benzylidenepentanedione et l'évaluation ...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 28, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: R. K. Chaudhuri, M. A. Ollengo, P. Singh, B. S. Martincigh Tags: Original Article Source Type: research